It starts as a distant rumble, a low vibration you feel in your chest before your ears fully register it. But with every step toward the village, that sound swells into something overwhelming, a roaring wall of noise that pulls you forward against your will.…
It’s early in the morning. Outside, the air is still cool, the sky above the campsite at Ben Smim a pale, washed-out blue. Today we have a 275-kilometre drive ahead of us. Over breakfast, we go over the route one more time. Google will no…